Taking care of acne-prone skin is not an easy task. It is difficult to choose cosmetics that on the one hand do not dry out the skin and on the other, will not be comedogenic. Acne affects more and more people and it is no longer just in the domain of teenagers! It is very important to know the cause of the problematic complexion. Acne lesions are most often caused by the excessive development of anaerobic bacteria Propionibacterium acnes. However, improper skin care may also cause an exacerbation of unwanted eruptions on the skin.
If you are struggling with the problem of skin imperfections, you should analyze your skin type again. Is it oily, mixed, dry, or normal? The term "acne skin" refers to the skin sub-type and may refer to any of the above-mentioned skin types. The "base" which is the type of our skin largely determines how we should care for the skin to get rid of the problem of acne. A mismatch of skincare and the choice of bad cosmetics will do more harm than good!
Skin type: oily or mixed with an acne sub-type
With these types of complexion, be careful when reaching for cosmetics with rich consistencies. When choosing beauty care products, it is better to use a lightweight, well-absorbing cream than a rich or greasy one. For washing your skin, your best option is to use gels or foams. Comedogenicity is a big risk, this type of complexion is very easy to "clog up" using cosmetics with too rich consistencies, but irritations or redness of the skin appear rarely.
Skin normal or dry with an acne sub-type.
Although it would seem impossible, more and more people complain of acne with the simultaneous lack of seborrhea, or even observing the appearance of dry skin, a feeling of dryness. This problem results from the use of irritating or drying substances - the so-called "Acquired substances" that induce the formation of acne lesions. Interestingly, this type of complexion reacts well to cleansing the face with milk or emulsions, tolerates the creamy consistency of the creams or oils.
What substances should be avoided in the care of acne skin?
Comedogenic, or colloquially "pore-clogging". These substances form an impermeable coating on the skin that limits skin contact with air. This situation leads to the development of anaerobic bacteria, P. acnes, which are the cause of acne.
You should also avoid substances that irritate your skin and make it dry.
Avoid cosmetics including the following ingredients:
- paraffin (Paraffinum, Parafinum liquid, Mineral Oil),
- petrolatum (Petrolatum),
- silicones (substances ending in -thicone, e.g. Dimethicone or -siloxane, e.g. Cyclopentasiloxane)
Acne - enhancing acne, irritating, and drying substances - drying agents:
- ethanol (Ethanol, Alcohol, Alcohol, DRF, Alcohol),
- isopropanol (Isopropanol, Isopropyl Alcohol),
- SLS, SLES and their derivatives:
* Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,
* Sodium Laureth Sulfate,
* Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate,
* Magnesium Laureth Sulfate,
* Sodium Coco-Sulfate.
Irritating substances:
– PEG & PPG,
– Glycol (Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, etc.)
– Disodium EDTA,
– Donors formaldehyde:
* Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidiazolidinyl Urea,
* Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
* DMDM Hydantoin,
* Quaternium (hexamethylenetetramine chlorophyll chloride quaternary ammonium salts used as surfactants.
Acne skincare routine
- Remember to clean your face if you wear makeup, first wash it with a micellar fluid or oil makeup remover and then use a cosmetic that massages your face: gel, foam, emulsion or lotion.
- In the morning just wiping your face with a cotton pad soaked in micellar liquid or tonic is not good enough! Reach for a cosmetic that you will wash your face thoroughly: gel, foam, emulsion or lotion. The skin also produces sebum overnight, the excess of which should be removed to avoid acne inflammation.
- Do not skip toning - it has to normalize a natural pH balance of the skin. Low skin pH between 4.5-5.5 is the optimal environment for the development of a physiological bacterial flora that inhabits our skin. This is a very important issue because the physiological bacterial flora prevents the skin from being colonized by the pathological flora to which P.acnes belongs. Sterilizing the skin with strong antibacterial agents does not always bring good results - antibacterial substances do not act selectively on P.acnes, they also kill physiological bacterial flora. Skin completely devoid of bacteria (sterilized) is more likely to be colonized by pathological bacterial flora (including P. acnes).
- In the morning and in the evening, remember to apply the moisturizing cream - proper hydration of the skin improves its condition. Dehydrated skin often stimulates the activity of sebaceous glands to create a sebum barrier that will prevent water loss from the epidermis. Excessive production of sebum leads to obstruction of the sebaceous glands and thus the intensification of acne lesions.
- Use peeling creams no more than once a week to avoid skin irritation. If your acne lesions are active, red or purulent, choose an enzyme peeling. If they are skin color, they are in the form of porridge or subcutaneous papules - choose a fine-grained peel.
- Provide your skin with a "rich diet". Do not limit yourself to cosmetics "matting", "anti-acne" or "cleansing", they are the basis of care, but for proper functioning skin, you should also provide it with moisturizing, nourishing, strengthening and anti-aging substances. Therefore, diversify your care for serum and face masks!
- Pay attention to colored cosmetics - despite the proper skincare, you can still deal with acne by using fluids, which are often rich in acne and comedogenic substances. Bet on mineral makeup, which not only does not exacerbate acne lesions but also helps to heal them!
- Wash makeup brushes after each use. Often change the pillow covers on which you sleep. Try not to touch your face, these unconscious activities contribute to the increase of acne.
It is worth mentioning that acne can also be a symptom of diseases in the body: demodicosis, hormonal problems, thyroid problems, improper digestive system work, and many more! Acne can also be a consequence of an unhealthy lifestyle, poor diet, poor sleep, or stress. Therefore, with persistent and constantly recurring problems, consult a specialist.
After changing the care habits, the effects will have to wait - the skin needs about a month to normalize and get used to new, more delicate cosmetics. However, the results that we can achieve with the help of proper care can surprise you very positively!
However, if the acne condition cannot improve despite the use of appropriate treatments, it is worth going to a specialist.
Our recommended skincare cosmetics for acne skin
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Article by Sylveco.pl. Author: Agnieszka Pindel, Master of Science in Cosmetology. Translated from Polish by Alina Cosmetics